Some variations on the Wooly Bugger. Both with and without the traditional palmered hackle.
These images come from our leader, Claude. He remarked “If I ever tie a dodgy fly, I normally use them as a starting fly in a particularly snaggy spot where loosing it wont break my heart 😊. As JQ said, you can trim the tail if you keep having tail strikes.”
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From Lyall:
The fly to be tied from 7:30 on the evening of Wednesday 28 April via Zoom will be the Hare and Copper. This is such an extremely easy fly to tie that it almost ties itself!!! The idea is that you just use materials you already have rather than me being prescriptive, for all materials with the possible exception of the hare’s mask dubbing. We might have tied these previously but I was asked to tie a sure bet fly for Tumut.
Hook – size 12 or 14, 1 X short nymph hook eg. Gamakatsu S12 (or any size 12 or 14 straight shank, eye down hook)
Thread – 8/0 black UNI thread (or brown or tan)
Bead head – 7/64 black, tungsten bead head (or gold bead head)
Lead ten thou or twenty thou lead wife (optional)
Tail – dark, speckled Coq De Leon (or pheasant tail or brown hackle)
Body – hare’s mask dubbing
Wire – medium UNI French copper wire (or gold coloured)
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Led by Claude, via Zoom. Details sent via email. All set for Tantangara.
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Claude led the way.
Recipe:
Hook: Hanak 130BL #14-20
Thread: 8/0-16/0 Black
Tail: Nothing or Pearl Crystal Flash
Body: CDC or Possum Fur or any other fine dubbing you have
Wing: 4-6 CDC feathers
Details:
The F Fly is one of the simplest and deadliest fly patterns. It is a Great all round Trout fly pattern. Tied in a range of sizes and colours it imitates a range of insects the CDC wing silhouette can be used to represent many caddis, olives and midge species.
The F fly is very effective in both rivers and still waters.
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A short update. Mike noted in the comments that Micky Finn had spoken about this fly for local natives during a session at Compleat Angler. JQ has done some research and pointed me to https://flystream.com/fly-fishing-for-canberra-natives-cod-perch/
JQ said “Mentioned deceiver but not flat wing..The flat wing just presents more of a lateral line of the fly.”
I’ll try to hunt out some images of Micky’s. Meanwhile here are three that JQ provided. After the event I hope I’ll be able to add some photos of those tied on the night.
From JQ:
Hope you’ve all had a chance to read up or YouTube the fly to see what you’re in for. A definite staple fly to have if fishing in the tropics for pelagics, and I am confident in the right colour and size, natives, king fish and Aussie salmon down your way will be all over this!
Attached is our ingredients with the exception of jungle cock and I’ve just substituted it with some stick on eyes, but if you jungle cock it then use it.
And colours of saddle hackle and buck tail.. Go nuts! The photo below of materials is just what I had on my tying bench.
Hook size too – entirely up to you. Guys here are tying 4/0 plus. And a quality hook should reduce the chances of getting straightened. Native flies you might go as low as size 1.
The blue length is heat shrink, not for shrinking onto anything but it will be used for pushing the buck tail back on its self rather than trying to do it by hand. A reasonable size straw will do good too,- I just didn’t have any. It’s got to be large enough to go over the eye of the hook that’s all..
More info with links to YouTube are here.
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News from JQ … some Youtube links
All the way from Far North Queensland, JQ will be leading us via Zoom. He has assured me these are for catching fish, not the crocs in his waters.
More detail including materials will be available closer to the night.
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(Photo is a close, not exact representation – thinner ribbing)
Materials:
· Hook: Jig, #14
· Bead: Black, Copper, ~2.5-3 mm*
· Body: Squirrel fur – grey/natural (alternate: Hares Ear..but spikey)
· Tail: Partridge*
· Ribbing: Glo-Brite #1 (pink) thread (alternate: other flouro thread)
· Thorax: #46 or #45 Hends spectra peacock dubbing (alternate: peacock herl)
· Collar: Partridge and CDC (alternate: one of them)
* Alternate: anything you have
You Tube Reference: Martin Droz binder nymfe hos Drammens Sportsfiskere
Nathan gave a great talk at our Oct 2020 meeting about fishing the Eucumbene River (check out the notes in the Nov 2020 Burley Line. His tactics and recommended flies can be used anywhere in our region.
We tied one of Nathan’s favourite flies -> the ‘Droz nymph’ led by Claude. His report follows:
A small group joined me in the tie of Nathan’s favourite ‘Droz Nymph’. We had a good old natter along the way, particularly passing on what knowledge the team had to Ken (one of our new members)….and I also refamiliarized his knowledge on the names of all the fly tying tools…it’s been a while. Thanks Alan, Peter and Lyall for your assistance! The fun part of the evening was discussing dubbing loops, thread splitting and dubbing wax 😊
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Shaun is the instructor and offered these notes.
Original Sawyer’s Pheasant Tail Nymph.
It’s such a common fly now that its easy to take for granted, but the original is quite different from what you might pick up from your local fly shop, and has a history that’s worth understanding.
Frank Sawyer was the inventor of this fly. No flashback, no peacock here, just a simple fly that he used to catch trout for a living on the River Avon the 1920s as a keeper. There are several Avon’s in England, this was the one near Salisbury/Stonehenge. It’s my favourite river name and Avon in proto Celtic means river, so it’s clear what the waterway is!
The Sawyer nymph is just small or extra small copper wire (gold, silver and red also work), and several long pheasant tail fibres – not even any thread is required. It’s so simple that I left out the materials list because it looked embarrassingly short! Add a nymph hook of your preference and you are all set.
The tying instructions are also pretty straightforward. Rather than write out a very short list, perhaps it’s best to see Frank himself tie it for us. This is the only footage of him tying recorded:
His Killer Bug
Out of guilt for the simplicity of the nymph, I’m going to show a second on the night – His Killer Bug. Originally a Grayling fly, but trout don’t seem to be so sophisticated as to care. Again the tying list is three items long, same hook, same wire, and a pinkish, brownish or greenish hank of wool. There’s a whole mythology behind what wool to use, and I have a collection of the ‘right’ ones if anyone wants to drop in and collect a sample, but again, I suspect the trout don’t spend enough time in knitting stores to really care.
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The Zoom session on 26 Aug was run by Claude.
our notes:
Hook: #14-10 Kamasan B170
Thread: Black 8/0
Body hackle: Black
Hackle: Black
Tag: Red Float-Vis
Rib: Silver wire or thin tinsel twist
Like the Possum Emerger, it does it all and will catch fish in many circumstances. It’s a great fly to hang a nymph under, such as a 007 for tailing fish and is easy to see in most different types of light.
Don’t be afraid to vary the pattern either, clip the hackle underneath so it sits low, tie it bushy or sparse. Try a hot orange tag or blue wire rib. If you vary it too much you can’t really call it a Zulu anymore but really the basic pattern is all you need.
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North Country Spider: Partridge and Orange
North Country Spiders – is the name given to wet flies tied in a particular style in the north of England. The Americans refer to them as “Soft Hackles”. They are at the foundation of all North Country fly fishing and are tied intentionally to be very sparse. They have been used for over a hundred years and are tied using simple, traditional, fly tying materials, to represent the full spectrum of insects available to the trout and grayling. There are many North Country Spiders variants that can represent virtually every insect and they have been successfully employed in lakes and rivers in Australia.
Shaun will be leading the tying session…you may recall the informative Loch Style fishing presentation he provided to the club earlier this year. Shaun has successfully employed these types of flies internationally and locally so his tying session is sure to be informative to all levels of fishers. Even if you don’t want to participate in the tie, join us with a single malt or camomile tea for the informative chat.
Tying List:
Hook: Wet Fly, Size 14-18
Thread: Orange 8/0. Traditionally actual tying silk made by Pearsalls. and waxed before use.
Rib: Fine gold wire (very optional). Substitute: You can use what you have in your tying kit
Hackle: Speckled neck feather from an English Partridge. Substitute: similar from a hen cape (rounded and soft)
Alternate ties: With a peacock herl as a thorax or head – behind or in front of the hackle.
Even more alternate ties: With a touch dubbed body.
Secrets he’ll talk about on the night:
– History, 15th Century Italian, 19th Century Yorkshire
– Finding real tying silk without paying $50 a reel on eBay
– How to fish
– Alternate ties
– Herl headed and Thorax spiders
– The Tenkara Tie
10 Soft-hackle Flies You Need to Know • Outdoor Canada
Method:
1. Lightly wax the thread first. Then tie on just behind the eye.
2. Catch in the fine gold wire and hold in-line with the hook shank as you wrap the thread in touching turns.
3. Stop wrapping the thread just short of the bend.
4. Wrap the thread back up in touching turns to just short of the eye.
5. Take the gold wire in open even turns towards the eye to produce 4-6 ribs. Secure the rib with two wraps of thread.
6. Helicopter the surplus gold rib close to the body.
7. Catch in a prepared partridge feather by the tip using only two or three wraps of thread running away from the eye. I’ll explain how to prep a feather on the night.
8. Cut away the feather tip.
9. Using hackle pliers make between one and two wraps with the feather. Be careful to keep the feather from twisting so the feather barbs take position perpendicular to the body. If you stroke the barbs back as you pass the hackle around the shank you will avoid catching any preceding barbs.
10. Make a careful whip finish with three or four wraps of thread. Avoid letting the whip finish flatten the feather barbs.
11. Touch in the head with a couple of tiny drops of head cement.
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