Flytying will be run by Shaun with his Crustacean Bugger – now known to be effective both locally and in Italy! Normal time of 7:30PM at Raiders Weston Club.
According to Lyall it looks like a trout slayer to and would be perfect for taking on the fat trout a few of us have been catching at Lake Eucumbene over the yabby beds recently. The materials list is below and Shaun’s full tying instructions will be available in hard copy at fly tying on Wednesday so BE THERE!!!
Shaun’s Crustacean Bugger
We tied the Eucumbene Zonker Bugger under JQ’s supervision.
Materials list and a photo of the killer fly here. Warning – these flies are so deadly that NSW Department of Primary Industries is about to make them illegal. 😀
The zonker is the tail, a replacement for the usual marabou. They’re not overly big and tied on a jig hook so that it may be snag free as you pull them through yabbie beds or soaks around the lakes.
– jig hook sizes 10-16. 12-14 is a recommended size for these. With a slotted bead to suit.
– Thread 8/0 uni and a colour of your choice
– Zonker strip (olive, brown, Black etc) to create the tail. We will remove the fur from strip, rather than tie in the strip.
– flash in any colour. One or two strips tied into the tail.
– body may be any dubbing, spectra, seals or chenille etc
– small wire any colour (locking down the hackle).
– hen hackle to suit body. Eg grizzly, olive, brown black etc.
– hot spot usually flyline backing or something that ‘pings’ when the UV torch hits it. JQ will bring this. It’s what Nathan recommends!
– head cement be it Loon UV or Sally Hansen’s
A simple straight forward tie… the thorax is the scruffy piece and the collar gives it a ‘lock on’ feature for the fish.
•Hooks – types various(jig, straight, caddis etc) sizes 12-18
•Bead – suit hook size – colour various
•Thread – colours various – 8/0 or 6/0 uni thread
•Wire – colours various – small (.6mm)
•Body – Various – stripped peacock quills, Hends body quills or tinsel mylar etc
•Thorax – colours and dub various. Hends Ice, Hends hares ear, seal-prism blend etc
•Collar – colour various but recommend a uv reflect (fluro orange, hot pink/ yellow, lime etc) size 3/0
•Sally Hansen clear top coat or a uv resin to lock down and bring shine to the collar.
Nothing special in this tie. Every fly we’ve covered in the past has a piece of material suitable to build this fly, nothing more to buy or hunt at a shop.
Claude has stepped up to instruct on his variants of the Royal Humpy style fly.
Claude has recently tied and tried a couple of versions of the Royal Humpy dry fly on one of Canberra’s local rivers. It proved successful for him and one of his fishing mates…who was considerably more skilled and consequently successful. A number of the fish were caught during blind casts rather than to rises. His mate has caught fish using it on a couple of occasions so hopefully the fish catchability of the fly was not a fluke!
The interweb tells us: “the Humpy trout fly comes in a range of patterns and colours: green, peacock, red and yellow. It represents a beetle or large flying insect and is a good all-purpose fly to prospect waters with. It is a useful indicator fly in the larger sizes. They are great summer time dry flies and produce fish consistently.”
Another site advised: “if you fish mountain streams that are bordered by forest, the trout will be used to seeing a multitude of terrestrial insects that continually rain from the trees. Ants, beetles and bees are often the staple trout foods in this situation. The Humpy is a great searching pattern.”
The traditional humpy, deer/elk hair and red thread takes Claude about 20-30 minutes to tie (he’s still a bit slow) so it may be a bit long to tie on one of our nights. The foam back, red dubbing body and aero wing (below) takes about 5-10 minutes less. The royal humpy can be tied in a variety of body colours using dubbing or thread.
- Hook: 10-16 Dry Fly Hook (longer shank unless you’re a super tier) – I prefer 12 or 14
- Thread: Uni 6/0 or 8/0 Black Thread.
- Tail: Elk, Deer or Moose (hopefully one that doesn’t flare too much).
- Wing: White Calf Tail or Aero Wing (I use pink AW just because that’s what I have).
- Shell Back: Traditional (Elk hair), Foam – Brown foam. I have seen one website that recommends thin Computer Packing Foam.
- Thorax: Numerous options: Traditional – Red Floss, Alternatives –Red Hares Ear, yellow, or any other bright coloured dubbings, Peacock Hurl, wool.
- Hackle: Brown Hackle Feathers.
An evening that you can’t afford to miss… Evan of Createafly fly tying has agreed to host fly tying next week on Wednesday evening from 7:30 at Raiders Weston at 1 Liardet Street in Weston.
The theme will be “all those fly tying questions you were too embarrassed to ask” so it will be a question and answer and demonstration session. Please send your questions through to Evan so that he can prepare his answers and demonstrations.
My question is “Who was Mrs Simpson anyway and why is she known as a killer???”
Bring your usual fly tying equipment.
See you all there for an out-of-the-ordinary night!!!
Nathan led the team tying the bibio. He remarked that he did quite well with it at Tantangara Dam for the recent FFA event.
Black and red seals fur, silver wire and hen hackle. More details via email.
hosted by Claude
||Tiemco 900 BL #16 – 18
Or 102Y #19
||8/0 Uni thread – wine
||Tiemco Aero Dry yarn (black or grey)
In Australia’s Best Trout Flies Revisited Pat Kennedy writes that David’s Aero Emerger has become his go-to fly whenever a hatch begins on the Mataura or its tributaries. He notes that it rarely lets him down. Suprisingly the black wing usually has excellent visibility, and seems to present a credible profile of an emerger dun. When tying the wing, leave a small shoulder to suggest the wing-case of an emerging mayfly. Dub the body very sparsely so that it sinks when wet. Prior to fishing, apply a small amount of floatant to the wing and shoulder only.
This month Nathan will be showing us how to tie chironomids also known as buzzers or midge larvae. They come in a huge array of colours and can be tied to float head up, tied bead head as a point fly, tied with or without gills or oxygen bubbles.
The materials you will need are:
– hook – pupa or caddis curved hooks #14, 16 or 18 or as small as you dare
– thread – black, olive or red
– silver ultra wire
– peacock hurl
– white poly yarn or similar
For those interested in entomology, take a look at http://www.mdfrc.org.au/bugguide/display.asp?type=5&class=17&subclass=&Order=7&family=252&couplet=0 which will tell you why red buzzers are red (red pigment haemoglobin to help them absorb oxygen), where they live and life cycle.
Claude is a relatively new member, but very much engaged – witness his previous contributions to Burley Line. In the lead up to 2017 winter, he made some enquiries about files he should be tying over winter. He sought advice from some notable fly tiers (and one not very notable at all – ie Bill). Readers might want to consider the final assembled list and contribute comments (I’m sure Peter will add ‘iron blue dun’ to the dry list).
Howdy Bill, Evan, Lyall and Nathan,
So my original intent was to find ‘5 flies of each type’ that I could tie over winter. As I’m fast learning, there is no simple answer … especially when trying to search what some of the recommended flies look like and you get multiple versions! I may have to get that Aussie Trout flies book I’ve been trying to avoid buying. I have added some links to some of the flies (not to buy, just to see what they look like). Below is a summary of the feedback I have received.
Thanks again for your advice 😊.
- Some kind of muddler (marabou or minnow) for the lake. Interesting, Bill looks here for “something that floats and puts out a good wake when retrieved whereas Peter has always argued that one should retrieve slowly if at all. I suppose it all depends on what the fish think it is at the time”
Most agreed with #14 or #16 for trout, but reminded Claude to consider some oversized dries to suspend nymphs and down to #18 for finicky eaters.
Don’t forget to tie a variety using weighted/unweighted, bead head or not (copper or tungsten)
Carp Flies: Evan provided some specific carp advice and added that “A lot of trout flies double as great patterns for Carp and Redfin, the following would be my ultimate Carp box in various weights, sizes and being creative with colours ie. nymphs don’t always need to be natural 😉”
- Spork size 6-10
- Unnamed jig Fly of mine that looks like a carrot…
- Buggers with and without hot spots, rubber legs, flash
- trout nymphs with and without hot spots, rubber legs, flash
- damsel nymph
- parachute Adams size 10
- glo bugs
I suspect Claude was anticipating only a few fly patterns to concentrate on, but this is what happens when you ask 4 or more people for fishing advice J I really appreciate his sharing this journey with us, also to the other contributors for their knowledge. We’d welcome any additional thoughts from you too.